After riding in some particularly British weather, the bottom bracket on my CAAD10 developed an irritating creak. This seems to be a common problem with BB30 bottom brackets as the bearings are quite exposed. I hadn’t replaced a bottom bracket before but it wasn’t too hard - it took about 3 hours over a couple of evenings.

Toolbox

  • 10mm Allen key
  • Rubber mallet (or a hammer with a block of wood)
  • Bottom bracket press (~£15 on eBay)
  • Lithium grease
  • Loctite 609 medium strength locking compound
  • New set of bearings
  • FSA BB30 removal tool
  • Freezer (optional)
  • Workstand (optional)
  • Beer (essential)

Instructions

This video does a great job of showing all the steps:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoUNL8FDweQ

The instructions below are for replacing the bottom bracket on a Cannondale CAAD10 but the process will be quite similar for other bikes with a BB30 bottom bracket.

  1. Remove the non-drive side crank arm using a 10mm Allen key. While undoing the bolt it will start to get tighter as the arm is forced off of the splines.
  2. Remove the wavy washer and bearing shield from the axle.
  3. Next, remove the crankset from the drive-side. It can be a little stiff so you might need to use the mallet to give it a few light taps of encouragement.
  4. The bearings on both sides are now exposed. The removal process is quite primitive and basically involves slowly tapping them out with a hammer. Slip the removal tool into the bottom bracket and position it so it rests on the inner surface of the bearings. Use a metal rod so you can tap the bearings out from the other side with a hammer. Rotate the removal tool after every couple of tabs so the bearings come out straight and don’t damage the frame. In my case the bearings were really stuck in and I had to use quite a bit of force to get them moving.
  5. Unless you have a good reason not to, leave the circlips in place.
  6. Now that the bearings are out, clear out any debris in the bottom bracket and wipe the inside with some kitchen roll.
  7. Now to install the new bearings. A retaining compound, such as Loctite 609, should help to prevent the dreaded creaking coming back. Apply a thin layer of Loctite 609 to the inside of the bottom bracket where the bearings will sit and to the outer surface of the bearings themselves. Use a small brush to spread it evenly. The exact process of pressing the bearings into the bottom bracket will depend on the tool you are using. Just go slowly and make sure the bearings are going in square.
  8. Apply some Lithium grease to the outward face of the bearings and replace the bearing shields. Apply some more grease to the bearing shields to stop water and dirt getting in.
  9. We’re now ready to reinstall the cranks. Push the axle attached to the drive-side crank through both sets of bearings. Make sure it’s pushed all the way through so the axle isn’t exposed on the drive-side. The axle may be quite stiff and need a few taps with a mallet. If it still won’t go through, leave the axle in the freezer for 30 mins or so and it should shrink enough to slide through.
  10. The axle splines should now be sticking out of the non-drive side of the bottom bracket. Pop the wavy washer back on.
  11. Finally use the 10mm Allen key to reattach the non-drive side crank. Make sure it is on nice and tight. The wavy washer should be slightly compressed and touching both the crank arm and the bearing shield.
  12. Go for a ride.